There's no shortage of Mexican restaurants in Winston-Salem, all offering similarly cheap and tasty variations on burritos, tacos, tamales and beans. But for a cut above your conventional enchiladas, South by Southwest serves up startlingly delicious southwestern fare.

The 9-year-old Marshall Street restaurant can be legitimately classified as gourmet, the menu full of subtle and inventive flavor combinations and recipe innovations, thanks to chef and owner Pat Burke. The Southwestern motif (evident not only in the food but in the pink adobe décor) blends surprisingly well with the many fish-based dishes. Rather than merely pedestrian chicken or beef, the southwestern-inspired recipes are complemented deliciously with succulent salmon, shrimp, Mahi Mahi or the catch of the day.

I started off my meal with an outstanding appetizer, brie baked in the juice of a sweet fruit compote of berries and apple chunks, with crackers for dipping. The sharp cheese blended perfectly with the tart and sweet fruit and set the standard for the remainder of the meal.

I considered my entrée, the Mesa Verde Grilled Fish Soft Tacos, a risk; fish and tacos just don't sound like they should be paired. But the peppers, salsa and rice were as fresh and flavorful as the chunks of fish fillet that broke off on my fork and were so tender that they dissolved in my mouth.

A friend raved about the Seared Tuna Salad with "pan seared spiced rare ahi tuna," plus cheese, black beans and roasted sweet corn with a light vinaigrette. The flavor combinations and overall freshness of all the food were amazing; the table went silent after our meal came as we all busily loaded our forks and groaned with the pleasure of each bite.

Not to mention the impeccable service. The solicitous waiter poured our wine underhanded as Emily Post suggests, making us feel like children in a fancy hotel. He returned often to check on our water glasses and general satisfaction, and couldn't have been more polite. He was knowledgeable about the menu and added to a gracious and pleasant dining experience.

Other creative dishes include the Saguaro Shrimp and Scallops, which includes shrimp, scallops, cheese ravioli and green chile tequila sauce. There are also chicken-based fajitas and enchiladas, plus a steak option for those fish haters.

This stellar service and incredible food don't exactly come cheap. Entrees are to , but absolutely worth it. The restaurant has several intimate rooms and a buzzing but refined atmosphere, perfect for a fancy celebratory dinner, a parental visit or a special date.

South by Southwest is located at 241 S. Marshall St., and is open Tuesday through Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., and can be reached at 727-0800.